The recent Geneva Watch Week showcased a thriving industry with various new releases and announcements. Watches and Wonders, which took place the week before Easter, had a successful outcome in terms of both quantity and quality. The event highlighted the revival of classic collections, such as the Rolex Daytona and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso, as well as the reintroduction of fun and unique pieces such as Oris’s Propilot X Kermit Edition. Notable trends observed during the event were the increasing use of titanium (as seen in Rolex’s products and embraced by several other brands, including Omega) and a shift towards smaller watch diameters, below 39 millimeters.
Here we have compiled a list of no particular order of our most favorite models from the convention.
Rolex – Cosmograph Daytona
The third edition of Watches & Wonders brought attention to a significant anniversary, the Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona, whose name is closely associated with the world of motor racing, specifically with the circuit located in Daytona, Florida, which hosts the thrilling 24 Hours of Daytona race. The Geneva-based company released the first model of this collection in 1963 to cater to the needs of pilots. Over time, the collection gained the admiration of many watch enthusiasts, including actor Paul Newman.
To commemorate the watch’s 60th anniversary, Rolex launched an entirely new collection, which includes a 40mm case with a redesigned look and a new movement – the 4131 caliber. The new Daytona is available in five versions with different materials, colors, and dials. Additionally, the latest version has a transparent case back, a first for this chronograph.
Oris – ProPilot X Kermit Edition
Oris has always aimed to bring joy and make people smile with their watches. With the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, they have found the ultimate expression of this emotion. Collaborating with Kermit the Frog from The Muppet Show was a stroke of genius. Kermit’s role has always been to entertain and put a smile on our faces. The watch has a green dial, a nod to Kermit’s iconic color, and his face pops up on the first of every month, aptly named ‘Kermit Day’. This playful feature encourages us to take a moment to enjoy life and find the joy in our day.
The ProPilot X Kermit Edition also boasts Oris Calibre 400, an innovative in-house automatic movement that took six years to develop. This movement promises three key features: anti-magnetic capabilities, a five-day power reserve, and a 10-year warranty.
Overall, the ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a watch that is sure to bring a smile to anyone’s face. It’s a playful and lighthearted watch that is perfect for those who want to enjoy life and find joy in the little things.
Discover more innovative and unique models by Oris, here.
Jaeger-LeCoultre – Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Jaeger-LeCoultre didn’t disappoint with their Reverso Tribute Chronograph watch. It truly can be considered a horological marvel with two faces, just like its predecessor. Available in both stainless steel and rose gold case versions, it blends perfectly with the classic line of the iconic Reverso Tribute collection, featuring stick hour markers, Dauphine hands, and peripheral railway minute track on the front dial. However, the slim chronograph buttons that delimit the crown suggest hidden complexity. By rotating the case, a second skeletonized dial is revealed, gracefully incorporating the watch’s chronograph function, featuring a large chronograph seconds counter, balanced by a retrograde 30-minute counter, all powered by the brand-new manual-winding Calibre 860, developed to fit inside a rectangular case.
Patek Philippe – Aquanout Luce Annual Calendar
The Aquanaut Luce collection by Patek Philippe has received this year a new addition – a practical and easy-to-use complication in the form of a patented Annual Calendar. This feature provides a complete day, date, and month calendar and requires only one manual correction per year, making it a highly convenient timepiece.
The rose gold case and bezel, with its signature rounded octagonal shape, has a beautiful contrast of polished and satin-brushed finishes, adding an extra dimension to the iconic design. The contemporary “sporty chic” style of the watch is further reinforced by the blue-gray dial and composite strap with an Aquanaut pattern.
The watch is equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement and a caliber 26-330 S QA LU, which powers the Annual Calendar, day and month displays, date aperture, moon phases, and sweep seconds. The blue-gray dial has a stunning embossed Aquanaut pattern with gold applied numerals featuring a white luminescent coating for better legibility in low-light conditions.
The 39.9mm rose gold case has a sapphire crystal case back and is water-resistant to 30 meters. With a height of only 10.9mm, the watch has a slim profile, making it comfortable to wear throughout the day. The composite strap, also in blue-gray, has a patented fold-over clasp, ensuring the watch stays secure on the wrist. Overall, the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar is a stunning timepiece that combines practicality and elegance, making it the perfect accessory to add to your collection.
Tudor – Black Bay 54
Tudor presented a dynamic innovation within the Black Bay collection at Watches and Wonders 2023, drawing inspiration from the 1954 reference 7922. The Black Bay 54, without a date and with a diameter of 37mm, is aimed at purists looking for an authentic Tudor experience from the past. Thanks to numerous modifications made, it is not simply a downsized Black Bay 58. Offered with a steel bracelet and rubber strap, this timepiece exudes a lot of class on the wrist.
Frederique Constant – Classic Tourbillon Manufacture
Frederique Constant really made heads turn this year with its newest releases promising even more to come. The Classic Tourbillon Manufacture is a true masterpiece that pays tribute to the art of watchmaking. Limited to just 150 watches, this timepiece features a 39mm case made of 18K rose gold, an exclusive and precious metal reserved solely for Manufacture limited editions. The dial boasts a minimalistic design, with hand-polished golden hands and applique hour markers gliding over an anthracite grey sun-brushed surface. The hands and hour markers now feature diamond-cut edges, ensuring maximum shine and brilliance. The tourbillon aperture, which has had a distinctive ‘comma’ shape for the past 15 years, has been replaced by a perfect circle in this edition, giving the dial a dynamic and unusual touch.
The tourbillon cage, made of 81 components, is engraved with the individual serial number of the watch and can be viewed through the sapphire caseback. The FC-980 Manufacture caliber, with all the finishings of traditional watchmaking such as bevelling, beading, circular graining, straight-grained flanks, and mirror polishing, adds to the watch’s intricate and refined look. The tourbillon cage is marked by a discreet hand that passes above it, indicating the seconds. The Classic Tourbillon Manufacture is a true collector’s item for watch enthusiasts who appreciate the finer details of watchmaking. The combination of exquisite materials and superior craftsmanship is what sets this watch apart from others in its class.
With a hefty price of around 51’000$ it’s not something everyone can have access to, but staying true to the companies moto of affordable luxury you can find more affordable yet as unique and interesting models here.
Roger Dubuis – Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph
At this year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva, luxury Swiss watchmaker Roger Dubuis debuted their Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph – a one-of-a-kind concept watch that introduces three new complications to the world of haute horlogerie. This watch showcases the innovation powerhouses of today’s luxury watch market, which has grown to be worth over $50 billion. The Monovortex features a 47mm mineral composite fiber case that is said to be 2.5 times lighter than ceramic and 13% lighter than carbon composite, making it a standout piece in terms of design and materials. What truly sets this watch apart, however, are the new complications it presents. The Conical Monovortex Tourbillon, for example, controls the forces of gravity and turns in 360 degrees, maintaining precision no matter which way the watch is turned. The fiery red and pink gold livery, which took years to develop, completes the look of this exceptional timepiece. The Monovortex is a testament to the innovative and forward-thinking spirit of the watchmaking industry today.
Vacheron Constantin – Overseas Moonphase Retrograde Date
Vacheron Constantin introduced the latest addition to the Overseas line, a sporty-elegant stainless steel watch that strikes the perfect balance between technical sophistication and aesthetic principles. This timepiece boasts an astronomical complication – the precision moon phase – along with a signature feature of the Maison, the retrograde display.
The poetic complication of this watch depicts two gold moons against a star-studded sky, requiring adjustment only once every 122 years. The watch comes with a folding clasp and three straps, made of steel, leather, and rubber, which can be easily interchanged, providing a personalized touch to the owner.
For the first time, the Overseas line incorporates a retrograde display, a feature that is an integral part of Vacheron Constantin’s living heritage, continually reinventing itself. This new model retains the iconic attributes of the collection, including a six-sided bezel evoking the Maltese cross, fluted crown, polished and satin-brushed finishes, and a translucent lacquered dial, along with luminescent hour-markers and hands. The watch also boasts a retrograde date and a precision moon-phase, elevating its overall functionality and appeal.
In summary, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas is a perfect blend of technical prowess and aesthetic appeal. Its unique features, including the precision moon phase and retrograde display, make it a timepiece to cherish for years to come.
A. Lange & Söhne – Odysseus Chronograph
The Odysseus Chronograph marks A. Lange & Söhne’s first foray into automatic chronographs, and it doesn’t disappoint. The watch boasts a sleek 42.5 mm stainless steel case and is powered by the brand’s new L156.1 Datomatic caliber. What’s unique about this chronograph is that it features no subdials; instead, both chronograph hands are positioned in the center of the dial, allowing for the maintenance of the Big Date and the day of the week. The watch also features dynamic dual-function pushers that serve to start, stop, and reset the chronograph in the normal position of the screw-down crown. When the crown is pulled out, they adjust the day of the week and date. This limited edition timepiece is set to release with only 100 pieces available.
Cartier – Santos-Dumont
Cartier’s latest release, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton watch, brings a new challenge to the iconic Santos-Dumont line: elevating its slim and understated shape. To meet this challenge, Cartier developed a new skeleton movement, the 9629 MC automatic, specially designed for this timepiece. This movement pays homage to the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, for whom Louis Cartier designed the first modern wristwatch in 1904. For the first time in the Santos-Dumont collection, the skeleton movement reveals a functional miniaturized oscillating weight in the form of a replica of the Demoiselle, an aircraft designed by Santos-Dumont in 1907.
The Santos-Dumont Skeleton watch comes in rose gold and steel, but the limited edition in yellow gold and navy lacquer takes sophistication one step further. Every detail, including the bezel and case, is lacquered, and the skeleton bridges have lacquer delicately applied by hand. This attention to detail showcases the exquisite craftsmanship and style that Cartier is known for. The creation of the 212-component micro-rotor caliber took the Cartier Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds almost two years to develop. With no dial, the skeleton movement allows for a transparent view of the movement, which seems to be suspended in mid-air within the sculptural frame. This reflects Cartier’s creative independence in watchmaking and its commitment to showcasing its savoir-faire. The Santos-Dumont Skeleton watch is set to be available from June 2023.